When I felt that Big Wave Energy!

We call it levar um caldo—literally "taking a broth." It’s that classic moment where you’re being tossed around in the ocean like laundry and swallowing half of it. If the wave just shuts down and slams you straight into the sand, we call that a caixote. It’s a bit of a reality check from the ocean, reminds you who is really in charge! Everyone at Arpoador beach has had their fair share of caldos; it’s just part of the rhythm. I will always remember that nervous energy in my chest was like a battery overcharging; I had to put it somewhere or I’d burst. I remember standing on the edge at Arpoador, watching the sets roll in with my heart hammering against my ribs. When I finally jumped in, the Atlantic didn't welcome me—it humbled me. I was tumbled and I didn't know which way was up. I survived the first several shocks and I paddled back out, lungs burning. But then, it happened - I relaxed, stopped fighting the water and just moved with it. That first moment the board caught the glide? It felt like plugging into the planet’s own rhythm. The fear vanished, replaced by this pure, electric clarity. ...after that one ride, feeling the energy beneath my board with my toes, there was no turning back.